Archive for the ‘By Design’ Category

According to the Centers for Disease Control, almost 17% of children aged 6 to 11 years old are now overweight.  Yet, apparel industry researchers have found that children who need extended clothing sizes often have limited options and styles available to them.  Parents are often forced to buy junior or adult-sized clothing that may not be age appropriate, that fits but isn’t fashionable or flattering, or that doesn’t fit well because it is just a larger cut of a regular size (rather than cut to match larger children’s unique proportions).

According to a 2006 National Textile Center Annual Report article on Apparel Product Development for Plus-sized Tween and Teen Boys:

“Lack of conformity singles them out and is damaging to self-concept. Health care professionals welcome having a greater selection of apparel for larger children.”

So what’s a parent to do in order to find truly appropriate fit and fashion for their child?

Meeting the Need

Since 2006, several companies have tried to address the lack of plus-sized clothing options.  Recently, I profiled the Happy Panda and RealKidz brands that were started specifically to address the need for plus-sized children’s clothes.

Like these brands, other small clothing manufacturers focus on kid’s extended clothing sizes by tailoring styles and sizes to these children’s body shapes, the latest fashions, and to parents’ budget constraints.  Many of these companies, like the Daniel Jacob Collection which designs boys’ husky size clothes and JeenyBeans which offers girls and teens plus size clothing, choose to sell their products online, directly to parents, in order to also provide their customers with sensitivity and expertise.

Where to Shop

In addition to small, emerging companies like the ones mentioned above, many parents shop at major retailers that have long offered husky and plus sized kids clothing, like Sears, JC Penney, and Walmart.com.

But, there are other options, as well. SizeTracker is introducing a Quick Fit Finder tool that was designed to help you find clothing brands that offer sizes suited to your little girl’s or boy’s unique body shape.  You can also calculate the correct size for your child and shop for some of these products directly from the SizeTracker web site.  See more children’s plus and husky clothing companies here.

I’d love to hear from parents out there:

If you have a plus-sized child what are the biggest challenges you face when shopping for your child? Can you recommend any stores or brands that cater to plus sized children?

Resources

• Childhood Overweight and Obesity, The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
• Plus-size children apparel’s forgotten customer
• Apparel Product Development for Plus-sized Tween and Teen Boys, NTC Project: SO6-AC03, National Textile Center Annual Report: November 2006

After she experienced frustration in trying to find clothing for her plus-sized daughter, RealKidz founder, Merrill Guerra, first found she was not alone and then set out to do something about it.

In her efforts to determine why she could not find clothing in the sizes her daughter needed, Guerra found that only 16% of the the girls’ plus-size apparel market is being served by currently available designs. Part of the problem, she realized, is that sizes are never one size fits all. A new type of sizing was needed to address the clothing needs of girls that fall somewhere in between regular and plus sizes.

The Birth of a New Sizing Model

Hence, a new sizing model was born. The RealKidz K-I-D-Z^TM Sizing Model is designed for girls ages 5 through 12 to fit Slim (K), Average (I), Above Average (D) and Plus (Z) girls. This system ignores industry standards and takes a much more granular approach to sizing, which, according to Guerra, “moves as close as you can find in the industry toward tailor made.”

RealKidz introduced its line this past spring with “Average” and “Above Average” sizing, a type of sizing that is unique and proprietary to their company. Guerra identified that,

there are really two different body styles represented in the plus size category. In general it falls into dividing up girls that are clinically overweight from those who are clinically obese. They have definitely different body styles and hence different fit needs. In terms of development, we use fit models who are representative of the body shapes we’re trying to fit to create our patterns.

The company plans to introduce slim sizes next, and then follow up with plus sizes afterwards.

Helping Parents and Girls

According to Guerra, the most exciting part of the process so far is seeing how happy the parents and their daughters are.

The parents and kids are surprised at how great the fit is! Yes, the lengths of the sleeves and the pants are much better (analogous to what an average size kid finds when they go to try on clothes), the rise in the pants fits – which is a huge issue, the sleeves are wide enough just below the shoulder, the back fits more comfortably and provides for the garment to lay on the girls beautifully.

Another interesting aspect of the RealKidz business is that the clothing is sold primarily through home-based parties. In other words, girls are able to see and try on clothing in the comfort of their own or a friend’s home.

Not Just a Business

Merrill’s idea for RealKidz goes beyond just serving an untapped market, but actually starting a movement to support all girls’ self esteem. Keep an eye out for the RealKidz® Family Network, a social network to help parents and kids support one another in incorporating healthy lifestyles into their families’ lives.

Learn More

RealKidz Website

RealKidz Sizing

True to what size is really the question?

This past weekend, I randomly selected a number of brands to review. For each of them, I checked out their most recent collection and their size guidelines. What most interested me is that many of the smaller brands do not offer size charts on their websites. I contacted a handful of them to see if they could share a little more information and was told, more often than not, that their sizes run “true to size.”

So, what does it mean when they say kid’s clothes run “true to size?”

As a parent, I would hope that if something is true to size, it means that I should be able to buy the size that matches by child’s age. So, if my kid is 3 years old, I should be able to buy size 3 or 3T, right? Of course, this assumes that I know if my kid is average for their age in terms of height and weight.

This begs a second major question, though:

What are the measurements of the average child?

You might say that the CDC growth charts are the best place to find out average height and weight by age – and the brands will probably tell you that’s what they mean. But, in fact, manufacturers use a variety of sources to define the average range of measurements that each size is designed to fit. Even those that say their sizes run true-to-size may use different information. And, of course, the size of the “typical” or average child has changed over time, but not all brands have kept up.

The short answer to the above question, then, is that depending on what source of child measurement data a manufacturer uses and when they accessed that data, “typical” measurements vary.

Where do measurements used for kid’s clothing sizes come from?

Children’s clothing designers use different approaches to develop their size charts and design standards.

1. Children’s Growth Data: A brand might look at CDC children’s growth chart data and use the 50^th percentile for height and weight to determine the average. The data were updated in 2000, but not all brands have updated their pattern grading to reflect the new data. So, true-to-size could be for a pre-2000 or a post-2000 child. As well, CDC data are not always clear about the other body measurements – it’s harder to find 50^th percentile for arm or leg length, for example.

2. Kids Clothing Size Standards: A brand might turn to the standards. Organizations such as ASTM periodically create standards for clothing measurements by age, gender, and body type. The ASTM has recently updated their standards for small children and regular, slim, and plus sized girls (boys’ standards to be released soon). These new standards will reflect a new “typical”, but, again, many brands have not had a chance to update sizing to reflect the new definitions.

3. Size Studies: Larger brands may seek the assistance of private companies that specialize in size studies that use biometric, 3-dimensional, body scanning technology. They may also use the results of these studies to design for a specific population or sub-population.

4. Reverse Engineering: It is also possible that a brand bases their size guidelines on the measurements used by a popular brand or brands, assuming that that’s what customers look for.

5. Manufacturer Recommendation: Finally, a brand may leave the size grading up to the facility that manufacturers their clothing for them. The manufacturer may use any of the above data, and state that it is “true to size.”

These approaches are common in the US. Designers in other countries have similar strategies, but child growth data, regional sizing standards and biometric studies will be more reflective of their local population.

Whatever the case, it’s almost impossible to know whether a “true to size” size will actually fit your child unless you know the size’s measurements for key body dimensions or you take your child to try the brand on at a local store.

I’d love your input please.

What has your experience been with different brands? What brands do you find run true to size – and if they do, does your child have typical measurements? Any designers out there that want to weigh in on the subject: what data do you use?

Ramblings on Reinvention

On Wednesday this week, two things came to my attention: the 20 year anniversary of the Tiananmen Square protests in China and a website called Wardrobe Refashion. The first I heard discussed on the radio in the context of understanding history in order to create a better present, the other focused on repurposing gently-worn clothing for smaller wearers.

These topics are seemingly dissimilar, but both inspired me to consider the concept of “reinvention”. So much of what we encounter today is new, free of blemishes, history and a personal touch. When we reinvent a used clothing item – whether through repurposing, renovation, refashioning with embellishment, or simply rewearing it with new accessories – we bring these characteristics back into the mix.

When I was a kid, my mom used to make simple elastic-waist pants for me and my brothers out of the plaid polyester suits my dad no longer wore – imagine playing in thick polyester in the middle of a 100 degree Utah summer! When I turned 10, my mom taught me to sew, and I’ve been making unique clothing for myself, and fun gifts for others ever since.

Along the way, I discovered thrift stores and never re-worn clothes in family members’ closets. I loved the vintage styles, quality, and sewing techniques of earlier years, and found that these items could be gently coaxed back to life and integrated with my wardrobe – allowing a periodic reinvention of self, if you will, that is built on the style of those before me.

But, forgive my rambling, and let me get to the point: Finding ways to reinvent clothing is a creative, fun, and thrifty way to add unique and memorable items to your children’s closet. Here are some ideas to consider:

• Refashioned kids clothes: In an earlier post, I talked about ways to convert kids’ seasonal clothing so that winter clothing that’s getting a little short in the arms and legs can last your child throughout the summer.
• Repurposed kids clothes: Do you have old clothes in fun fabrics that you no longer wear? Try your hand at pint-sizing them. Make a skirt smaller, cut kids pant legs from old jeans, turn the sleeves of a fun sweater or tee into leggings and use the rest for girls tunic, etc.
• Renovated kids clothes: Extend the life of clothes your child already wears. Take clothes that still fit, but show a little wear, and then use patches, leg extenders, or other embellishments to add add a touch of fun.

Photo courtesy of Gaye Abandon Etsy shop.

• Recycled kids clothes: To me, recycling means breaking something down and using it in something new. Similar to repurposing, but different in that recycling gives you license to tear apart and recreate in wild abandon, patch-working together pieces from different items to create something new. There are some great examples out there – check out Etsy for ideas.

What other ways have you found to reinvent kids clothing? Do you have pictures you want to share with others – if so, send me a note with a URL to a photo of your creation and a brief description of how you made it. (If you don’t have a photo URL, let me know that to and I’ll let you know how to send a photo directly.)

And fulfill a dream or your unmet need

Tired of never finding clothing that fits your child, or other children like them? A new website lets you take your angst and basic design ideas and put them to good use.

Courtesy of LaunchYourLine.com

Launch Your Line, which itself launched at the end of March, gives you the resources and connections you need to actually start a clothing line.

“LaunchYourLine.com is free to join, and we provide all the tools and information entrepreneurs need to make their product lines successful,” says company founder Ruben Navarrete. “We encourage people to see how far they can take their ideas with LaunchYourLine.com.”

Here’s how it works:

1. Create a free account,
2. Answer questions about your idea that are geared toward helping you find the support you’ll need to get started,
3. Track your clothing line’s development process, step-by-step, from business planning and design to contract bidding and brand launch using the Launch Your Line Dashboard.

Sound simple? Well, maybe. You will still need to do lot of work to get your kids clothing line off the ground. But, the Launch Your Line (LYL) website has a number of resources to help you not only design clothing but create a successful clothing business by guiding you each step of the way. In addition to planning tools, though, the LYL network connects you with other clothing designers, entrepreneurs, manufacturers and service providers who have expertise in areas where you may not. These connections can help you overcome common hurdles to starting a kids clothing company of your own.

Designing Kids Clothes

Designing clothing for kids is somewhat different from designing for adults. Often there are growth and development considerations, safety precautions and laws, and issues of functionality to consider. But, designers must also think about the way clothes fit, how they look, and what they convey about a child and/or their parents.

“When designing children’s clothing remember you are designing clothing to make parents feel good about their children or helping parents give their children personality that may not exist in the child. This is an interesting form of projection. Designers who are aware of this can leverage it for a very successful brand.” — Navarrete

Navarrete told SizeTracker Blog that, when getting started, children’s apparel designers should also:

• Create what they know and trust their instincts. In other words, “if you have a 5 year old and you are creating a line for 5 year olds, you have a built in research analyst. You know what 5 year olds need.”
• For safety and legal reasons, completely eliminate drawstrings from any designs.
• Follow industry standards for size and fit, since consumers often buy off the rack for children. For younger children using weight (and length) as guidelines can be helpful if you choose to create your own sizes.
• Navarrete also suggests that designers carefully consider their fabric choices. “Research shows that children’s clothing is often felt and handled by the consumer more than adult clothing. The texture of the fabric is essential as it communicates level of quality.”
• Investigate creative packaging to help make your product stand out.

Streamlining the Manufacturing Process

Launch Your Line is set up to accommodate just about any type of clothing, shoe, sports gear, or other product design – it boils down to having an idea and then using the LYL network and resources, as well as your own research and connections, to find reputable pattern-makers and manufacturers that have experience in the area you want to delve into.

In general, it pays to carefully research your suppliers and manufacturers, as well as to take precautions when working with foreign entities. Navarette recommends that designers consider hiring an independent quality and safety test firm if they choose to work with an Asian manufacturer.

So, are you ready to start, or still a little hesitant? Create an account at LYL and check things out. If you’ve already seen LYL in action, please comment on your experience.