Posts Tagged ‘interview’

Michelle Mokalla is always on the lookout for new talent, but the kind of talent she finds is different from what you might expect.  As the Director of Fit Modeling for Marla Dell Talent in San Francisco, Michelle often helps children’s clothing designers find children that will help them test the products they create.

How does fit modeling affect the clothes kids wear?

Typically, child fit models are hired to test newly-designed clothing items. They try on sample clothing during the development phase of production so that the designers and merchandisers can see how an item fits, how the fabric hangs, what a garment looks like when worn.

According to Michelle, manufacturers, when they can afford it, prefer live fit models because mannequins cannot comment on whether a shirt is too tight around the arms or a pair of pants is comfortable to run, jump, or play in, for example.

In other words, this fitting process helps clothing manufacturers make clothing that fits children’s bodies and activities.  They can use their observations and the child’s feedback on how it feels when wearing and moving in a clothing item to make changes to their designs before it is mass produced and available to you and your kids.

Finding the right fit

It takes a certain kind of child to be a fit model.  First of all, the child’s measurements must fall within a clothing manufacturer’s specific design requirements for whichever size (or sizes) they want to fit.  These size requirements will vary from brand to brand, but reflect the brand’s target wearers.  In her role at Marla Dell Talent, Michelle will:

“…look for children who meet a given manufacturer’s requirements and then introduce them to each other.  Because fit modeling also requires a child to be able to focus, take direction, and share what they think, manufacturers will then meet with the child for a mini-audition.”

These auditions are also an opportunity for the designers to re-check the child’s measurements, see how they interact with their parents and the design staff, and to check for technical items like the child’s posture, the slope of their shoulders and their body proportions.

Creating positive experiences for children who fit model

Fit modeling, particularly as it relates to children, is sometimes criticized because of the potential that such scrutiny and comments have to hurt feelings and self-esteem.  While many manufacturing companies make efforts to prepare staff who interact with children to be sensitive with them and to abide by a class-room style level of respect and behavior, Michelle makes the point that:

“Children hear everything.  I would just caution people who work with child fit models to be careful about what and how things are said around them.  Laughing and sarcasm, even if you think it’s innocent, can be misunderstood and hurtful.”

A positive fit modeling experience, though, can result in a long-term relationship between kids and designers.  A manufacturer may try to find a child whose measurements are at the small end of their clothing size range and then work with the same child until they grow “out of size” for the clothing line.

As well, a child’s involvement in fit modeling gives them an up-close look at the world of fashion design.  This behind-the-scenes involvement, as well as an opportunity to see a garment in a store and know that it fits well because of them, can be exciting and lead to interest in design as a possible career option.

Resources:

• For more information on working as a fit model see Marla Dell Talent Fit Modeling page
• For more information on working with fit models from a manufacturer’s perspective, see The Entrepreneur’s Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing by Kathleen Fasanella

Post script: this post provides an outside-in view of the role that fit models play in fashion design.  I would be interested in hearing from technical designers and parents about your experiences with child fit modeling.

Courtesy of Happy Panda Blog's Wordless Wednesday

So, what do you do if your baby is larger than average? According to Pamela Kramer, founder of Happy Panda, you will typically be on a quest to find the right clothing fit. This is especially the case when the ages on standard size charts do not match up with your baby’s age.

Trying to find the right fit for her little one (who was wearing a size 2T before his first birthday) led Kramer to develop a baby clothing design system that helps customers find a better fit for bigger babies when shopping by age. The Happy Panda baby clothing brand caters to plus size babies between 0 and 24 months of age. It’s also important to note, that Happy Panda clothing is made in the USA of environmentally safe fabrics, and there are no tags to irritate baby’s skin.

Kramer was kind enough to shed some light on how her sizes work, and on what parents of larger babies can do to find clothes that fit.

ST: What issues do parents of bigger babies typically face in terms of clothing a child?

PK: When a parent goes to the doctor they normally get the stats (weight and height) which help them when looking at the size charts. As a parent you know those stats and can typically shop without too much of an issue. In my experience, I always found myself buying the next size or two sizes up based on the average size charts that are printed on hang tags.

ST: How do your sizes differ from typical baby clothing sizes?

PK: Simply put, [Happy Panda sizes] are bigger sizes based on the weight and height of babies who fall into the higher percentile statistics. My system was based on my own children’s growth rate and they were my real life models. The larger sizes have been refined over time based the stages of a baby’s mobility.

ST: Do you have suggestions for parents transitioning out of your brand?

PK: They are going to buy the next size or two up. Our sizes end at 2T and then should transition right into the average size 4T depending on the growth rate of the child.

In larger chain stores, for example JCPenny, you will now see a new size “husky.” This isn’t for babies but you can see where the sizes are headed as children become preteens.

Each child is different, and eating habits and mobility need to be taken into account. If I were to choose which statistic weight or height to go with I would always go with the weight of the child.

ST: What is the most popular product you sell?

PK: The most popular product I sell are the diaper cakes that come equipped with clothing and other standard necessities (diapers, pacifiers, diaper rash cream, etc.). Perfect for gift giving a mom or dad to be. Most parents know their own child’s statistics. Our store also caters to those friends and family that know the age of the child and don’t have to worry about whether they got the size right. It’s less likely the item would be returned because it’s too small.

For more information on Happy Panda, visit their online store at happypandababy.com.

After she experienced frustration in trying to find clothing for her plus-sized daughter, RealKidz founder, Merrill Guerra, first found she was not alone and then set out to do something about it.

In her efforts to determine why she could not find clothing in the sizes her daughter needed, Guerra found that only 16% of the the girls’ plus-size apparel market is being served by currently available designs. Part of the problem, she realized, is that sizes are never one size fits all. A new type of sizing was needed to address the clothing needs of girls that fall somewhere in between regular and plus sizes.

The Birth of a New Sizing Model

Hence, a new sizing model was born. The RealKidz K-I-D-Z^TM Sizing Model is designed for girls ages 5 through 12 to fit Slim (K), Average (I), Above Average (D) and Plus (Z) girls. This system ignores industry standards and takes a much more granular approach to sizing, which, according to Guerra, “moves as close as you can find in the industry toward tailor made.”

RealKidz introduced its line this past spring with “Average” and “Above Average” sizing, a type of sizing that is unique and proprietary to their company. Guerra identified that,

there are really two different body styles represented in the plus size category. In general it falls into dividing up girls that are clinically overweight from those who are clinically obese. They have definitely different body styles and hence different fit needs. In terms of development, we use fit models who are representative of the body shapes we’re trying to fit to create our patterns.

The company plans to introduce slim sizes next, and then follow up with plus sizes afterwards.

Helping Parents and Girls

According to Guerra, the most exciting part of the process so far is seeing how happy the parents and their daughters are.

The parents and kids are surprised at how great the fit is! Yes, the lengths of the sleeves and the pants are much better (analogous to what an average size kid finds when they go to try on clothes), the rise in the pants fits – which is a huge issue, the sleeves are wide enough just below the shoulder, the back fits more comfortably and provides for the garment to lay on the girls beautifully.

Another interesting aspect of the RealKidz business is that the clothing is sold primarily through home-based parties. In other words, girls are able to see and try on clothing in the comfort of their own or a friend’s home.

Not Just a Business

Merrill’s idea for RealKidz goes beyond just serving an untapped market, but actually starting a movement to support all girls’ self esteem. Keep an eye out for the RealKidz® Family Network, a social network to help parents and kids support one another in incorporating healthy lifestyles into their families’ lives.

Learn More

RealKidz Website

RealKidz Sizing

And fulfill a dream or your unmet need

Tired of never finding clothing that fits your child, or other children like them? A new website lets you take your angst and basic design ideas and put them to good use.

Courtesy of LaunchYourLine.com

Launch Your Line, which itself launched at the end of March, gives you the resources and connections you need to actually start a clothing line.

“LaunchYourLine.com is free to join, and we provide all the tools and information entrepreneurs need to make their product lines successful,” says company founder Ruben Navarrete. “We encourage people to see how far they can take their ideas with LaunchYourLine.com.”

Here’s how it works:

1. Create a free account,
2. Answer questions about your idea that are geared toward helping you find the support you’ll need to get started,
3. Track your clothing line’s development process, step-by-step, from business planning and design to contract bidding and brand launch using the Launch Your Line Dashboard.

Sound simple? Well, maybe. You will still need to do lot of work to get your kids clothing line off the ground. But, the Launch Your Line (LYL) website has a number of resources to help you not only design clothing but create a successful clothing business by guiding you each step of the way. In addition to planning tools, though, the LYL network connects you with other clothing designers, entrepreneurs, manufacturers and service providers who have expertise in areas where you may not. These connections can help you overcome common hurdles to starting a kids clothing company of your own.

Designing Kids Clothes

Designing clothing for kids is somewhat different from designing for adults. Often there are growth and development considerations, safety precautions and laws, and issues of functionality to consider. But, designers must also think about the way clothes fit, how they look, and what they convey about a child and/or their parents.

“When designing children’s clothing remember you are designing clothing to make parents feel good about their children or helping parents give their children personality that may not exist in the child. This is an interesting form of projection. Designers who are aware of this can leverage it for a very successful brand.” — Navarrete

Navarrete told SizeTracker Blog that, when getting started, children’s apparel designers should also:

• Create what they know and trust their instincts. In other words, “if you have a 5 year old and you are creating a line for 5 year olds, you have a built in research analyst. You know what 5 year olds need.”
• For safety and legal reasons, completely eliminate drawstrings from any designs.
• Follow industry standards for size and fit, since consumers often buy off the rack for children. For younger children using weight (and length) as guidelines can be helpful if you choose to create your own sizes.
• Navarrete also suggests that designers carefully consider their fabric choices. “Research shows that children’s clothing is often felt and handled by the consumer more than adult clothing. The texture of the fabric is essential as it communicates level of quality.”
• Investigate creative packaging to help make your product stand out.

Streamlining the Manufacturing Process

Launch Your Line is set up to accommodate just about any type of clothing, shoe, sports gear, or other product design – it boils down to having an idea and then using the LYL network and resources, as well as your own research and connections, to find reputable pattern-makers and manufacturers that have experience in the area you want to delve into.

In general, it pays to carefully research your suppliers and manufacturers, as well as to take precautions when working with foreign entities. Navarette recommends that designers consider hiring an independent quality and safety test firm if they choose to work with an Asian manufacturer.

So, are you ready to start, or still a little hesitant? Create an account at LYL and check things out. If you’ve already seen LYL in action, please comment on your experience.

Soft Logo

This week, Soft, a company that makes soft clothing designed for children with sensory sensitivity, announced that it will launch its first collection in Fall 2009 with a full line of children’s clothing and accessories. Styles will range from casual sportswear to holiday and occasion wear.

Soft’s clothing is designed especially for children who experience tactile defensiveness, a symptom of Autism, Aspergers, Sensory Processing Disorder (SPD), and ADHD that can cause them to overreact to touch or refuse or avoid touching. This sensitivity can also mean that something as simple as the texture or feel of clothing can be distressing to a child.

In an email Q&A, Jessica Elsas, founder of Soft, told SizeTracker that, “Sensory sensitivity with regard to clothing is a widely misunderstood and unaddressed issue. As a teacher, I am acutely aware of the myriad behavior and social-emotional issues that can result from children who experience tactile defensiveness in the classroom, and I know that these behavioral and social issues carry into the home and community. It is one of many barriers to true inclusion in the classroom and beyond.”

Soft’s Inclusive Clothing Design Features

With this in mind, Elsas and her company aspire to create a clothing brand that can enhance social skills, sensory organization, and concentration, by addressing unique sensory needs, but without sacrificing personal style and self expression.

According to Elsas, “Universal design is a concept that has been applied to architecture, and curriculum planning—as a way of making sure these things are made accessible from their inception, rather than going back and adapting after the fact. We intend to apply that same principle to clothing–so that parents and eventually adults will be able to purchase clothing with the confidence they won’t have to spend time and money self-tailoring, snipping tags and labels, sewing down seams–and all the many adaptations people report to us that they have been doing for years.”

Before designing their products, Soft surveyed over 5000 parents. As a result, Soft’s designs incorporate features adapted specifically to the needs of children with sensory sensitivity – as well as of children with developmental delays that could benefit from similar adaptations. These features include:

• Flat seaming and seamless construction for extra comfort
• Soft cotton combed, peached and pre-washed for extra soft and smoothness
• Wide collars for a roomy fit
• Encased elastic waistbands that don’t pinch
• Printed labels (tagless) that don’t itch
• Vegetable dyes, natural enzyme washes, and water-based prints to protect against allergies
• Soft, cotton-covered snaps – instead of buttons – when closures are needed.

Innovative Design Ideas

Soft Adapt Chinos

For typical children’s wear, anything that might be patched on, woven in, embroidered, or otherwise be used to accessorize or embellish the surface with snazzy detail is OK. But, designing for children with SPD means that Soft has to be creative in how they make clothing that is both comfortable and stylish.

For example, instead of using decorative stitching or buttons to embellish clothing, they print the design details with vegetable or water-based inks to make clothing look fashionable without irritation. As well, they use these inks to give the impression of pockets, ties, and other clothing accessories.

A great example of this are their chinos (see sketch) and jeans which incorporate all of these design elements.

Soft’s Clothing Size and Fit Information

Through their research, the company found that the majority of sensitivity issues (89%) are experienced by children in the 2-10 year age range. So, they will introduce their line in sizes 2-10. Soft’s technical designer has ensured that Soft’s size and measurement standards are consistent with the other major brands that their potential customers currently buy.

To parents with toddlers, Elsas says that Soft’s smaller sizes are “constructed to accommodate diapers in most pant styles. Our skirts and dresses were designed with diapers and/or unique toileting needs in mind, with an a-line construction and a high waist (which thankfully is very trendy this season!)”

Even though the company has not yet made their line available, Elsas says that they are receiving emails on a daily basis from parents who hope the range of sizes will be expanded to tween, teen, and even adult sizes. The company is already doing market research into these areas, as well as looking into infant sensitivities – so be sure to watch their progress!

For More Information

“I am hoping that through our stated company mission, marketing campaigns, and eventually adoption by major retailers–we will call attention to this common problem, and the various resources available and therapeutic options for those who experience sensory sensitivity.” –Jessica Elsas, founder and designer at Soft

To learn more about the Soft brand or to share your stories, advice, questions and more about Sensory Disorders (Autism, Aspergers, Sensory Processing Disorder, ADHD and more), visit the following resources:

• Soft Website
• Soft Social Network
• Soft Blog

Soft is also searching for non-profit partners, to whom they plan on donating a portion of their profits and cross promoting through their website and marketing campaigns.